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Story and Photos by Frances Fernandes / For The Free Press
Lake, Colo., is the western gateway to the Rocky Mountain National Park. Just seven hours driving time from Santa Fe, the beauty of its mountains, lakes and rivers will provide a number of activities for everyone in the family.
The town itself has restaurants catering to all tastes, from the elegant Rapids Restaurant at the end of town, to Mexican food, casual cafes, and take-out eateries. Strolling the town, shoppers find jewelry, clothing, and curios in the many different kinds of shops.
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| Grand Lake is a natural lake, one of the headwaters of the Colorado River in Grand County, Colo. It is the largest natural lake in the state of Colorado, formed by the damming of several streams by a glacial moraine. |
Some of Grand Lake’s attractions include wildlife sightings. Moose, foxes, birds and even bears can be found roaming through the yards of residents and sometimes even the streets downtown. During the summer, the town’s melodramas attract visitors from around the country. A convenience for business people and Web addicts alike, a wireless connection is hosted at no cost in Grand Lake’s new log library.
The town was founded in the 1800s and has an interesting wild west history. The old Gregg house, now called the Spider House, is one example. Gordon Sumner, now a Santa Fe resident, purchased the home from the Gregg family after a tragedy in which Mrs. Gregg shot and killed all but one of her children on the upstairs porch.
A catalog bride from the East, the well-educated woman moved to Grand Lake to marry an uneducated bachelor and apparently was overwhelmed by her primitive surroundings.
Stories of Grand Lake families can be traced through literature and exhibits found at the town’s museum. Long a year-around playground for Denverites, the park is just seven hours driving time from Santa Fe.
Year-round activities such as hiking in the summer and cross country skiing in the winter abound. The Grand Lake Golf Club becomes the Grand Lake Ski Center in the winter, with well-kept trails for both cross country skiing and snowshoeing. Everyone from beginner to expert can find a trail to enjoy.
Unfortunately, bark beetles have destroyed about 80 percent of Northern Colorado’s lodgepole pines. Although falling trees in the park is a hazard, current rules prohibit cutting them down on public lands.
However, the beauty of the park with its trails and wildlife still endures.
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| Nestled on a quiet lane in Old Grand City sits the intricately crafted home of Warren C. and Mary O’Brien Gregg, known today as the Spider House. |
Trail Ridge Road, closed in winter, is a spectacular 53-mile drive beginning in this western edge. For those with the time to do so, the road to the village of Estes Park in the eastern section of Rocky Mountain National Park and peaking at 12,183 feet above sea level passes across the Continental Drive, offering views of beautiful mountain vistas. Once at Estes Park, it is just a 70-mile drive to Denver.
Getting to Grand Lake can be an interesting part of a vacation in itself. It’s a drive with diverse landscape that provides many opportunities for side trips. Leaving Santa Fe on 285, continue driving north of Española. This year, ponds and streams along the way have been running full. Two hours after leaving Santa Fe, you reach Antonito. The narrow gauge railroad begins its journey to Chama there.
Going past the train depot, follow the road north to Alamosa in the San Luis Valley. Gold and silver discoveries fueled the mining rush to the area. The history of the valley’s settlement was greatly influenced by the railroad, farming, ranching and timber.
Alamosa is usually a good stop for filling up at one of the city’s gas stations. A Colorado Welcome Center can be found on Sixth Street near the train station.
Leaving Alamosa on Highway 17, one passes little communities such as Mosca. And it seems that aliens from outer space also love the San Luis Valley, since a UFO sighting spot along the road attracts visitors to its domed viewing structure.
Blending onto Highway 285, you will pass ranch lands on the approach to Poncha Pass. Coming down from the mountain pass in the heart of the Sangre de Cristo mountain range, you’ll see Crestone Needle, a climbing mountain to the east.
Once down into the Upper Arkansas River Valley, it may be time for a lunch break. Salida’s Kountry Kitchen on Broadway, about 10 minutes east of Highway 30, offers old fashioned cooking. Its varied menu features the often-requested chicken fried steak as well as its homemade pecan squares and cinnamon rolls.
The area is known as the Banana Belt because of its mild climate. About 1½ hours to the east is the 1,000-foot-deep Royal Gorge carved by the raging Arkansas River. The 24-mile historic Royal Gorge train ride through the gorge is considered to be one of the most scenic train rides in the world.
Leaving Salida, continue north on Highway 285. This heavily patrolled stretch takes you past the Arkansas Valley Correctional Facility. Because of the prison, expect to find police cars along the way. A word to the wise — monitor your speed.
If it was too early to stop at Salida for lunch, you’ll have another opportunity in Buena Vista. Beeyoonie, as it’s called by locals, has a number of restaurants. Jan’s, on the west side, is one of the most frequented. Beautiful mountain views abound.
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| With its majestic mountains, miles of lakes and rivers, abundant wildlife, quaint shops, delicious dining, entertaining nightlife and a multitude of activities and events, Grand Lake, Colo., is the ideal year-round family vacation destination. |
Once past Buena Vista, the road takes you past the Sawatch Range to the west and Mosquito Range to the east. Just south of Granite, with its general store and log cabins, you will pass the Old Stagecoach Road to Leadville with railroad tracks and the Arkansas River running alongside. Then south of Leadville is a loop for Crystal Lake fishing access in the Arkansas Headwaters Recreation Area. The small lake is stocked with trout from the nearby fish hatchery. It’s a pleasant place to enjoy a picnic lunch.
Back on the highway, you’ll be on the way to Leadville. Gold brought the miners to “them thar hills” so Leadville is chock full of western history and lore. The little town was once home to the likes of Billy the Kid, Doc Holiday, the Unsinkable Molly Brown and Kit Carson.
Of course, it was made famous by the character of Annie Oakley in the musical “Annie Get Your Gun.” Modern day Leadville is also home to the historic Delaware Hotel, a Victorian Inn located in the center of its National Historic District. The Columbine Inn is also a good place to spend the night.
Further north on Fremont Pass, you will pass one of the country’s biggest molybdenium mines that was worked during World War II. It went out of business for a time, but it has been reopened once again since there is renewed demand for the mineral.
The highway continues north to the Copper Mountain Ski Area. It’s a yearround recreation area enjoyed by skiers and hikers alike. Nearby, the city of Frisco offers the traveler a number of restaurants and recreation facilities.
In the summer and fall, mountain bikers and hikers enjoy trails winding through the forest and along the shores of Lake Dillon. Additionally, the town has The Ten Mile Recreation Pathway, a paved path used year-round by residents and visitors to walk, skate, or Nordic ski around Frisco. Arriving in Silverthorne, shoppers will enjoy stopping at some of its hundreds of outlets and factory stores.
Coach, Polo, Ralph Lauren, Anne Klein, Banana Republic, Mountain Sports, Nike, and Nine West are just a few of the stores there. The town itself is expanding with restaurants, lodging facilities, and a hardware store. Many condominiums and houses are being built, some to be used as second homes for residents of Denver. The road north passes by the Blue River and the Blue River campground.
Further north, Green Mountain Reservoir with its boating and camping facilities is running full because of the huge runoff from heavy winter snows in the Rockies. It will be easy to see that this year’s water supply will be more than adequate.
At Kremling, you are just about an hour away from Grand Lake. The Colorado River is a lovely sight with cattle grazing on the green meadows of its banks. After passing through the town, the Front Range can be seen straight before you. Cattle ranches border the green hills on both sides of the highway. Then drive on to the seat of Grand County, Hot Sulphur Springs, with its heated waters and lodging accommodations.
Before arriving there, you will go through Byers Canyon with its steep canyon walls. The train from Denver to Salt Lake City crosses through the canyon. Once reaching the outskirts of Granby, you’re almost there. Another half hour and you’ve arrived at Grand Lake. It’s time to relax and enjoy the beauty of the area.
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